Burgers are best in the summer, but make them from the sea

With ground beef prices going through the roof, partially due to the pandemic closure of many meat plants, looking for burger alternatives has never been timelier.  For others who eschew meat, turning to the sea is always a viable option.  There are probably a zillion variations of shrimp burgers/cakes (also, salmon patties or cod fritters), but all highlight the lightness of the finished item on the palate and the waistline.

Some years ago, we offered similar shrimp cakes as an appetizer in the Fourth Estate restaurant; they were a hit.  As we enter summer and outdoor eating season—with the requisite social distancing—these seem more appropriate as burgers on your favorite roll: brioche, potato or whole grain. 

Shrimp burgers, as opposed to fin fish, have a unique characteristic.  When you whirl ½ the shrimp in the food processor with some of the aromatics, the shrimp becomes naturally sticky like a spongy glue.  Because of this, there is no need for eggs or other binding agent to hold the patties firmly.  This is true for scallops, also.  The result is thorough shrimp taste with little to distract.

We find these are better sautéed than grilled—the crust is particularly good-- but the latter is always an option in summer.  If grilling, make sure the grate is clean and rubbed with a bit of oiled paper towel to Discourage sticking.  These are great with a touch of avocado aioli, salted cucumber and onion.  When tomatoes come in season, they would be welcome, but until then, give them a pass.

Shrimp Appetizer Cakes/Burgers; Avocado Wasabi Sauce

Ingredients

Shrimp Cakes

2# shrimp (any size, can be small), shell removed & deveined, divided half

1 red pepper, fine dice

¾ cup scallions (3-4), rough chop (can sub sweet onion)

½ cup cilantro (about ½ bunch), rough chop

4 T sesame seeds (white and black)

2 T sesame oil

1 jalapeno, rough chop (taste for heat: discard seeds if very hot) (optional)

1-2-inch ginger root, peeled and grated or chopped

2 Lime, zest and juice

Salt/pepper

1 ½ cups pancko or other breadcrumbs (divide ½ & 1 cup)

Old Bay seasoning

Avocado/Wasabi sauce (appetizer size cakes) 2-3 Avocado flesh

3 T Lime juice and zest (about 2 limes)

2 T Wasabi powder (can sub horseradish)

Salt

Aioli variation for Burger:

2 T mayonnaise,

1 clove garlic

Sliced cucumbers

Red onion, thin slice

Procedure

1. Toast sesame seeds in dry pan.  Cool and hold
2.  Red pepper:  remove inner spines and seeds, fine dice.  Hold
3. Combine scallions, cilantro, ginger, jalapeno in food processor; add ½ shrimp. Pulse until somewhat smooth, scraping down as needed.
4. Rough chop second ½ half shrimp
5. In bowl, combine seasoned shrimp paste, chopped shrimp, red pepper, sesame seeds and oil, lime zest and juice and ½ cup panko.
6. With incredibly clean hands (or gloves), gently mix ingredients.  If mix is wet, add more pancko.  The pulsed shrimp helps the mix stick together. Trick:  before processing or chopping shrimp.  Drain on toweling or absorbent paper for an hour or overnight.  This eliminates a lot of residual water in the shrimp.

2.  For appetizers, portion shrimp mix into 24 equal amounts:  shape into 2” cakes, about 1/2 inch thick.  For burgers, divide into 8 patties (about 5 oz. each).  Gently press either into remaining panko seasoned with Old Bay, salt & pepper. Refrigerate 1 hour or overnight to meld flavors and firm patties.  Alternatively, place in freezer about ½ hour, then refrigerate.

3. Heat combination of butter and oil; sauté until crust develops.  Flip and transfer to preheated 400-degree oven to finish cooking, about 5-10 minutes.  [Interesting tidbit:  most commercial kitchen ovens are held at 425+ degrees; this allows the searing of various proteins on the stove top and finishing in oven.  This frees up valuable stovetop burner real estate.

4.  Sauce:  Mash all together.  Taste, adjust wasabi or salt. For burger, add mayo and garlic.

5. Service:  Appetizer:  plate 3 with swoosh of avocado sauce; Burger:  toast bun in sauté pan or on grill, spread avocado aioli, thin sliced cucumbers, slice red onion and lettuce.  Fries on the side can’t hurt.