Spanakopita: The luscious Greek classic that made Popeye love to eat spinach

Spanakopita

Sometimes just a few ingredients can produce something very special. Some weeks ago, I chronicled a spinach casserole that I urged be part of a regular repertoire. The following spinach pie is a variation on that theme, but takes the concept to a new level by veiling the spinach mixture in a crusty, flaky phyllo crust. Dill plays a major flavor role in this orchestration, so it always tastes like spring.

A Greek landlord in Tucson, Arizona, insisted that I would learn more about cooking from her than during my internship at Canyon Ranch Resort. She dissed the approach to vegetables at the famous spa and insisted recipes like the following are all a cook really needs to know about spinach. She was well versed in greens, and made me a lifelong fan of dandelion greens -- except those growing in my garden. 

This is her recipe. You’ll note a reference to hand-patting the oil on the phyllo sheets. She also dissed using a pastry brush. “Why get it dirty?” she would add.

At the end of the recipe, I have added a bonus about how to alter this mixture into an always welcome appetizer, Spanakopita Triangles. These look so professional in their little flag-fold packages, that after making these once, one would be hard pressed to settle for the commercial variety.

Spanakopita or Greek Spinach Pie: hors d’oeuvre, side dish or vegetarian entrée

Ingredients:

1 onion, small diced

Vegetable oil (not extra virgin olive oil, called EVOO), for sautéing, see below; extra for brushing between phyllo sheets

3 bunches green onions, chopped

1 cup dill, (one bunch), thick stems removed, coarse chop

1 lb. cottage cheese

3/4 lb. Fetta crumbles, (3” x 4” x 1½”  chunk), more or less

3 packages frozen spinach (30 oz.), 2 lb. is OK

5 eggs, blended

1 package phyllo (also called fillo)

 

Instructions:

1. Sauté onions in skillet until soft and slightly brown. No reason to use extra virgin olive oil, but regular olive oil is OK. ANY vegetable oil. There is little advantage to EVOO once it is heated. Cool after cooking.

2. Defrost spinach and squeeze out water.

3. Mix cooled onions with crumbled Feta and cottage cheese. (It is possible to substitute firm tofu for a vegan variation.)

4. Add dill and spinach; easily done with incredibly clean hands.

5. Add eggs, salt and pepper; some recipes call for lemon zest, nutmeg or a touch of cayenne pepper; also using butter, not vegetable oil. None of this can hurt, but this is delicious without anything else.

6. Choose baking pan: 12” x 18” for thin pie (traditional); 9” x 13” for thicker. Preheat oven to 350˚ F.

8. Have vegetable oil and pastry brush ready: Oil bottom of pan and lay about 1/2 box phyllo in bottom of baking dish, sheet by sheet, about 6-8 sheets. Brush oil between each of the phyllo leaves, sparingly. Traditionally, this is done using one’s incredibly clean hands to pat oil onto each sheet. The brush is a sanitary alternative.

9. Put all filling in middle (optional, reserve about 2 cups for variation discussed below).

10. Layer another 6-8 phyllo leaves/sheets on top of filling, brushing oil between each sheet.

11. Cut through layers in either 2” x 3” inch squares or a diamond pattern.

12. Bake until honey brown color emerges: about 45 minutes, until bubbly all over. Let rest about 10 minutes before serving. Mixture will be very hot. Yum.

Save some filling, phyllo for later

Spinach hors d’oeuvre
Spinach hors d’oeuvre

13. Hors d’oeuvre bonus tip: A box of phyllo can be anywhere from about 18 to 25 (12” x 17”) sheets. Some phyllo is thicker, some thinner. Reserve 5+ when making the spinach pie for some appetizers to keep in the freezer for a spur-of-the-moment (now via Zoom) get-together. While the pie bakes, use the remaining phyllo and filling for some luscious 'apps.' This is easy:

a. Lay a phyllo sheet on the counter with 12” side near you. Cut 4 long strips 17” long.

b. Brush each strip with a bit of oil; or reverse/brush whole sheet, then cut into 4 strips.

c. Place a heaping teaspoon of the filling at the bottom corner of the strip. Fold over phyllo to make a triangle, don’t worry on the first fold if some of the filling wants to escape; you’ll capture it later.

d. Continue to do a “flag fold” up the phyllo strip: flip filling over to make 2nd triangle, 3rd, 4th and 5th until you get to the end. Brush a bit more oil on the last fold to secure the stray ending. It doesn’t matter if there are loose bits; stick them to the neat triangle package with more oil.

e. Lay finished folded triangles seam side down on flat pan and freeze -- not touching each other. Once frozen, these can be transferred to a Ziploc freezer bag. 

f. To serve, transfer straight from freezer onto baking sheet to a pre-heated oven and bake until honey brown, about 10 minutes. Serve as cocktail appetizer or take to someone as a terrific hostess gift. Graciously receive all compliments as the host with the most or a most generous guest!